Day 3 – Thursday 26th May 2011
Today’s adventure comes in 5 small parts.
1. Buns of Steel
The sky was filled with clouds, hiding the sun which had been burning my skin for the last 2 days. With the tent packed up and Ol’ Betsy heavy laden once more, I swung my leg over to set off for Paris.
“Oooh!” The pain jabbed as the saddle made its way back into its homely groove. Despite the pain, I know that t-shirt I wrapped around it is providing some welcome extra padding. I had the phrase, “No pain, No gain!” engrained in my head from years of trying to push my limits. This cycle trip will certainly be doing that.
So it is, with almost a tear in my eye, that I leave Les Andelys, heading onward.
2. The Long and not so Winding Road
I hit the D6014 with speed. I’m averaging over 12 mph so far, flying along like there’s no tomorrow. The road is clearly laid out: dead straight for the next mile with a hill which should provide a fantastic view. And it does. Looking at the map, I should have guessed what was coming. Behind me was a few miles of perfectly straight road. In front of me was a few more miles of straight road. I’m not even on a bend. It’s clear the Romans were here.
There’s a rise in the distance which looks like it could be hard work. Lucky for me the road is so straight that judging inclines is nigh on impossible. I make short work of it, top gear all the way. That’s a habit I’ve got to shift: I see it as a challenge to make it up hills in top gear. The satisfaction is great, but the same can’t be said for the strain on the knees. Not to mention the bike’s chain.
Cruising down the other side, I see a big meander ahead. Ol’ Betsy is creaking more than before. The speed is increasing and I’m hoping she holds together.
The end of the meander is uphill. I’m focussing hard on pedalling – it’s tough, despite having changed down a few gears this time. I’m on a stretch of dual carriageway and the next thing I know, there’s a French voice calling out. I look up and this French guy – on foot! – makes his way to the central reservation and hops over. A brief exchange reveals I’m headed to Paris and he’s walking to Rouen. Rouen?! That’s about 32 miles away! The guy’s a nutter. Fair play to him though.
3. Follow your Nose
The D6014 turned into the D14 a while back and it’s about to turn into autoroute. I’m sure it had already been autoroute for a while by the number of cars that had beeped their horns at me. Never mind, I turn off at the next exit, making my way to Cergy. A quick stop for some lunch before I navigate my way into Paris.
It’s tough. I’m almost regretting using this map. Although it’s smaller and much lighter than dad’s French map book, it’s nowhere near as detailed. Desperately trying to stay off the autoroute, but knowing that’s the direction I need to be going, I make my way to Pontoise. I find a nice open area with a building which has “Office de Tourisme” stamped on the side. Perfect, now I can find out where I am. Or, at least, I would if they were open. I’d forgotten that most of France shuts down around lunchtime. They’re shut until 2pm. Currently it’s 1.05pm. No way am I hanging around for that long. How hard can it be?
I cross over the river and find the road I want to take... blocked. No diversion signs, so I make it up. The road bends left and right, over railway lines and past lots of quiet, narrow streets. I prefer the more major roads because they’re more clearly signposted. This is not good.
Time for Plan B. Buy a compass. With a good enough map, I’ve never needed a compass. But my map just isn’t making the grade at the moment. Find a compass, point it to Paris and keep going. Plus there’s a supermarket up ahead. Bonus.
French supermarkets don’t seem to sell compasses. Gutted. “I think Paris is... this way!” and off I go. Before I know it, I come to the N184. That road’s on my map! But there’s a sign that says no cyclists. So I head down another street which I think is parallel to it.
A couple of miles later and I find the N184 again. No dreaded sign this time, so off I go.
4. Taking a Banana Off-Road
Now I’m headed to Nanterre. All the signs point to autoroutes. Luckily it’s still only early afternoon so I have plenty of time.
I get to a place called St-Germain-en-Laye which houses a fantastic building. I have no clue what it is, but I take a photo before pressing on.
The road to Nanterre turns into autoroute and even goes underground. “I wonder if there’s a way over the top...?” No sooner had the thought entered my head and I was off. A hard squeeze of the brakes stops me from jolting down a series of steps. (Note to self: tighten brakes... they should work better than that!) A grass slope gets me to the bottom where I meet a dusty track with a sign to Nanterre. It must be a “scenic walk” route or something as the distances are in minutes. Cyclists are allowed, so off I go.
It’s nice to have the distances in minutes... the numbers go down far quicker! I pass Nanterre, pop over the river, park up at the campsite and pitch my tent.
5. A Parisian Adventure
It’s 7.30pm. I want to be able to say that I’ve seen the sights in Paris, but don’t wish to spend another €16 at this campsite. For me, “seeing the sights” involves being present at a famous location and possibly taking a photo if there’s a camera to hand. I’m not really bothered about looking around museums or getting to the top of tall buildings to see a view which looks better in a tourist guide. I’ve no problem with people who like doing those things – and I’d happily go along with them – it’s just not me. Certainly not on my own.
I have a bike. I have less luggage. I have a detailed map of Paris, clearly labelling the tourist locations. And I have 2 hours before it gets dark. Come on!
I shoot off into the city, going faster than one of those “professional” cyclists, complete with lycra and fancy wheels. As my friend Neil would say, “All the gear and no idea!”
I look up. There’s the Eiffel Tower. Brake. “Click!” Photo taken. Job done. Move on.
I see some other fancy looking buildings and take lots of photos, clicking away like a true tourist. I find the Notre Dame. No hunchback though. “Click!” Onto the Louvre.
I’m sure I’ve cycled too far. I ask a couple of passers-by. “It’s there!” they say, a little confused as they point right across the road. Well, I did think I must be close... but I probably seemed like an idiot to them anyway.
A couple of clicks later and I’m at the Place de la Concorde, looking up the Champs-Élysées. The right-hand side is a long line of red lights with the sheer amount of traffic. Some of the lights turn green and the red snake wriggles forward. I wonder... Could I...?
I head up the Champs-Élysées, a little concerned that there are no other cyclists. As I near the top I do one last check. I’m in the right gear. “Let’s do this!”
Pushing reason aside, I force myself onto what must be the world’s busiest roundabout: the Arc de Triomphe. It takes me half a lap to edge my way to the centre. I complete the lap and stop to take some photos. One more lap later and I’m laughing my way back down the Champs-Élysées, having completed the 2 laps of the Arc, as is traditional in our family. I bet not many people can say they’ve done it by push bike!
Not even 3 hours later and I’m back at the campsite enjoying a coke!
Stats
Mileage = 84.83 miles
Riding time = 7 hours 43 minutes
Average speed = 10.9 mph
Top speed = 35.5 mph
Total mileage since start = 199.7
Today’s adventure comes in 5 small parts.
1. Buns of Steel
The sky was filled with clouds, hiding the sun which had been burning my skin for the last 2 days. With the tent packed up and Ol’ Betsy heavy laden once more, I swung my leg over to set off for Paris.
“Oooh!” The pain jabbed as the saddle made its way back into its homely groove. Despite the pain, I know that t-shirt I wrapped around it is providing some welcome extra padding. I had the phrase, “No pain, No gain!” engrained in my head from years of trying to push my limits. This cycle trip will certainly be doing that.
So it is, with almost a tear in my eye, that I leave Les Andelys, heading onward.
2. The Long and not so Winding Road
I hit the D6014 with speed. I’m averaging over 12 mph so far, flying along like there’s no tomorrow. The road is clearly laid out: dead straight for the next mile with a hill which should provide a fantastic view. And it does. Looking at the map, I should have guessed what was coming. Behind me was a few miles of perfectly straight road. In front of me was a few more miles of straight road. I’m not even on a bend. It’s clear the Romans were here.There’s a rise in the distance which looks like it could be hard work. Lucky for me the road is so straight that judging inclines is nigh on impossible. I make short work of it, top gear all the way. That’s a habit I’ve got to shift: I see it as a challenge to make it up hills in top gear. The satisfaction is great, but the same can’t be said for the strain on the knees. Not to mention the bike’s chain.
Cruising down the other side, I see a big meander ahead. Ol’ Betsy is creaking more than before. The speed is increasing and I’m hoping she holds together.
The end of the meander is uphill. I’m focussing hard on pedalling – it’s tough, despite having changed down a few gears this time. I’m on a stretch of dual carriageway and the next thing I know, there’s a French voice calling out. I look up and this French guy – on foot! – makes his way to the central reservation and hops over. A brief exchange reveals I’m headed to Paris and he’s walking to Rouen. Rouen?! That’s about 32 miles away! The guy’s a nutter. Fair play to him though.
3. Follow your Nose
The D6014 turned into the D14 a while back and it’s about to turn into autoroute. I’m sure it had already been autoroute for a while by the number of cars that had beeped their horns at me. Never mind, I turn off at the next exit, making my way to Cergy. A quick stop for some lunch before I navigate my way into Paris.
It’s tough. I’m almost regretting using this map. Although it’s smaller and much lighter than dad’s French map book, it’s nowhere near as detailed. Desperately trying to stay off the autoroute, but knowing that’s the direction I need to be going, I make my way to Pontoise. I find a nice open area with a building which has “Office de Tourisme” stamped on the side. Perfect, now I can find out where I am. Or, at least, I would if they were open. I’d forgotten that most of France shuts down around lunchtime. They’re shut until 2pm. Currently it’s 1.05pm. No way am I hanging around for that long. How hard can it be?
I cross over the river and find the road I want to take... blocked. No diversion signs, so I make it up. The road bends left and right, over railway lines and past lots of quiet, narrow streets. I prefer the more major roads because they’re more clearly signposted. This is not good.
Time for Plan B. Buy a compass. With a good enough map, I’ve never needed a compass. But my map just isn’t making the grade at the moment. Find a compass, point it to Paris and keep going. Plus there’s a supermarket up ahead. Bonus.
French supermarkets don’t seem to sell compasses. Gutted. “I think Paris is... this way!” and off I go. Before I know it, I come to the N184. That road’s on my map! But there’s a sign that says no cyclists. So I head down another street which I think is parallel to it.
A couple of miles later and I find the N184 again. No dreaded sign this time, so off I go.
4. Taking a Banana Off-Road
Now I’m headed to Nanterre. All the signs point to autoroutes. Luckily it’s still only early afternoon so I have plenty of time.
I get to a place called St-Germain-en-Laye which houses a fantastic building. I have no clue what it is, but I take a photo before pressing on.The road to Nanterre turns into autoroute and even goes underground. “I wonder if there’s a way over the top...?” No sooner had the thought entered my head and I was off. A hard squeeze of the brakes stops me from jolting down a series of steps. (Note to self: tighten brakes... they should work better than that!) A grass slope gets me to the bottom where I meet a dusty track with a sign to Nanterre. It must be a “scenic walk” route or something as the distances are in minutes. Cyclists are allowed, so off I go.
It’s nice to have the distances in minutes... the numbers go down far quicker! I pass Nanterre, pop over the river, park up at the campsite and pitch my tent.
5. A Parisian Adventure
It’s 7.30pm. I want to be able to say that I’ve seen the sights in Paris, but don’t wish to spend another €16 at this campsite. For me, “seeing the sights” involves being present at a famous location and possibly taking a photo if there’s a camera to hand. I’m not really bothered about looking around museums or getting to the top of tall buildings to see a view which looks better in a tourist guide. I’ve no problem with people who like doing those things – and I’d happily go along with them – it’s just not me. Certainly not on my own.I have a bike. I have less luggage. I have a detailed map of Paris, clearly labelling the tourist locations. And I have 2 hours before it gets dark. Come on!
I shoot off into the city, going faster than one of those “professional” cyclists, complete with lycra and fancy wheels. As my friend Neil would say, “All the gear and no idea!”
I look up. There’s the Eiffel Tower. Brake. “Click!” Photo taken. Job done. Move on.
I see some other fancy looking buildings and take lots of photos, clicking away like a true tourist. I find the Notre Dame. No hunchback though. “Click!” Onto the Louvre.I’m sure I’ve cycled too far. I ask a couple of passers-by. “It’s there!” they say, a little confused as they point right across the road. Well, I did think I must be close... but I probably seemed like an idiot to them anyway.
A couple of clicks later and I’m at the Place de la Concorde, looking up the Champs-Élysées. The right-hand side is a long line of red lights with the sheer amount of traffic. Some of the lights turn green and the red snake wriggles forward. I wonder... Could I...?
I head up the Champs-Élysées, a little concerned that there are no other cyclists. As I near the top I do one last check. I’m in the right gear. “Let’s do this!”
Pushing reason aside, I force myself onto what must be the world’s busiest roundabout: the Arc de Triomphe. It takes me half a lap to edge my way to the centre. I complete the lap and stop to take some photos. One more lap later and I’m laughing my way back down the Champs-Élysées, having completed the 2 laps of the Arc, as is traditional in our family. I bet not many people can say they’ve done it by push bike!Not even 3 hours later and I’m back at the campsite enjoying a coke!
Stats
Mileage = 84.83 miles
Riding time = 7 hours 43 minutes
Average speed = 10.9 mph
Top speed = 35.5 mph
Total mileage since start = 199.7
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